Montenegro to Albania

Kotor - Podgorica - Bar - Podgorica - Tirana

Ugh! A really early start: 5 a.m. bus to Podgorica, the capital of Montenegro.

We did the coastal rounds of towns such as Tivat and Budva initially.

The bus picked up quite a bunch of people in the old royal capital of Cetinje (about 10 to 7) that we had visited with Miloš two days ago. 

Into Podgorica a bit behind schedule (i.e. after 7:30 a.m.). It will be tight: we race to the garderoba (left luggage) to leave our bags and then race around the corner to the station, buy tickets and onto our first train in Montenegro! The 7:55 a.m. to Bar. Phew! 

We’ll return this afternoon for the bus to Tirana in Albania.

Train windows are FILTHY so limited views. But at least the train leaves on time. 

In Bar, we take a taxi to the Old Town as it is over 5 kms uphill and raining intermittently.

The Stari Grad is pretty but touristy, although there are very few people around this morning probably as it was still early and because of the rain. 

The Stari Grad is located on the Londsa hill at the foot of Mount Rumija, and here are the ruins of the old city of Stari Bar. What previously was a Roman settlement back in the 6th century became a Slavonic, Venetian and eventually Ottoman property until it finally was destroyed in 1878 during the war between Russia and Turkey. Stari Bar was heavily hit by the earthquake that took place in 1979. Since then the remains of the city have been reconstructed.

We enjoyed a coffee closer to the top of the hill then, as we were walking back down, my feet shot out from under me. 

So, I slipped on the wet pavement and was taken by ambulance to the hospital (where the main language amongst the locals appeared to be French 🧐; some German, but the actual medical staff spoke good English).

Am now sitting outside the station at Bar immobilised like a mummy after an X-ray confirmed a fracture of the humerus. I have despatched MF to look for food to take on our journey.

So that is Bar ticked off - apart from watching trains shunting whilst we await ours …

Our train arrived late into Podgorica but fortunately we had enough time to collect our bags from the left-luggage and catch our onward bus to Tirana (the capital of Albania). 

The bus station is a debacle with no indicator boards for which bay the bus is departing, passengers are being required to pay for extras they don’t understand, the driver won’t allow our day packs on board necessitating pulling out bits and pieces which is all a bit of shambles really. Once underway, he swerves and breaks suddenly when he goes to answer his mobile phone, and there is a flurry of seatbelts being clicked on amongst the obviously quite concerned passengers …

MF is now on luggage duties (a reversal of when I had this job several years back when we visited the other Yugoslavian countries we have been to: Slovenia and Croatia; irony 🥲).

A 4-hour bus journey - the obligatory two border crossings: one out of Montenegro, the other into Albania, both negotiated reasonably seamlessly. Fortunately I got some sleep along the way. The food bought earlier at Bar tided us over; bus arrived early about 7:30 p.m. but in a very out-of-the-way bus station.

We take a taxi from the bus station to our hotel where Julian at reception is very helpful and thankfully carries our bags up to our room.

His suggestion for a restaurant is great and it is just down the road. The prices are cheaper than elsewhere.

Also the Euro is used but we’ll have to get some Lek as otherwise we’ll get a poor exchange. 100 Lek = 1 Euro.

We are here for 3 nights, which is good.

Am getting reasonably adept at using left hand although MF will have to tie my shoelaces…