Day 7 Intrepid: Prizren ‘free day’

After breakfast we did the walk up to the Prizren Fortress, a 6th century castle (aka Каlаја e Prizrenit in Albanian).

We took the 5.5 km loop walk which involved a gentle climb, great views over the city then a short, steep descent.

We enjoyed a coffee at the bottom.

Then everyone split up to do their own thing.

We visited the rather gorgeously simple Church of St. Nicholas also known as Crkva Svetog Nikole (Tutićeva crkva) which is a Serbian Orthodox church and therefore under police guard. It is tiny and the policeman was locking the gate as we approached but in asking if we could enter, he gestured us closer and asked where we are from. When we said ‘Australia’, he said ‘you have come so far’ and allowed us in. Built in 1331-32, original frescos have been preserved in the upper parts of the vaults.

Opposite is the Church of St. George. Dating from 1856, this Serbian Orthodox Cathedral was badly damaged during 1999 and the 2004 riots, hence the police guard.

Prince Charles visited the church and spoke about the importance of Serbian Orthodox Christian sites in Kosovo.  The Prince was informed that 16 years after the end of the armed conflict, 200,000 Serbs still cannot return to Kosovo and and that out of 8,000 pre-war Serb population of Prizren, only 20 elderly people remain in the city. This is from a local news item dated 2016.

After this, we had a short break before some of us went by minibus to the wine area of Rahovec and visited the boutique winery, Daka, for a wine-tasting. For MF and me, it was interesting to be introduced to a new grape variety vranç (or vranac). The owner’s son Arian is the wine-maker and he represents the sixth generation of winemakers in this Albanian family.

Another rest then a G&T by the river. 

‘Surprise’ birthday wishes organised by Sando at hotel recepcion with the group.

Then MF and I had dinner out at Beska Turkish Grill in Shadervan Square which was very lively tonight; MF had steak but I stayed with macaroni bolognaise - something I could eat with one hand … Good meal. Had a Vranç wine.

Walked 11.8 kms.